Sewing Skirt and Top

It is so good to be sewing something besides nap mat covers.  Don't get me wrong, I love using my talents or skills...however limited they are and which way you want to look at it...for doing things for charitable causes or for my church.  But I am ready for something different.

I pulled out Simplicity 9264, size XL.  According to the envelope, if one goes by the bust, I am that size, but my waist and hip is two sizes larger.  Pattern companies are seriously screwed up on their sizing. Found some dark blue denim in my stash and made the skirt, View C.  I really liked the pleats in the front and back, the side pockets and elastic waist.  Screams easy...right?  Well, it was for the most part.  I made it much harder than it had to be by trying to size it to my measurements.  I thought I was being so smart about it.  I looked at the pattern measurements, then measured myself, then figured out how much I needed to increase and where, then went to work. I took some scrap fabric and mad the waist band, just to check the measurements.  I was spot on. So I thought.

Added 3 inches to the length, I am long legged and a length of at the knee or just below is more in my comfort zone. I added 2.5 inches to the sides of the waistband and skirt.  I realized too late that the waistband was elastic all the way around. I wanted to have a flat front waist and elastic back waist, and wanted it to be a wider band as well.  I didn't have enough fabric to cut two waistband pieces the width I wanted, so I thought I would improvise and and cut the band wider out of two different pieces and sew them together along the top of the waist band there by making a great casing.  When I stitched up the skirt and band, I was so proud of my even pleats and pockets. Measured a piece of elastic for the back, inserted it and stitched up the casing.  Well...I had added five inches to the width of the skirt (2.5 on each side) after trying it on to see if I could easily put it on...the whole skirt fell off.  I ended up having to take six inches...not stretched...and it is still a bit loose but I figure that is I ever wear a shirt tucked in it will be fine.  Now, the added inches made the side seams off center as well.  They fall to the back of each side so the pockets are kind of weird to get anything in or out of.  The extra fabric played weird with the back as well, the gathering from the elastic makes it hard to see the lovely pleat detail.  LESSON learned...do not add to this pattern, it fits right out of the envelope, as is. I used my serger to the bottom edge of the skirt, then turned it up for a narrow hem.

Decided to make the top as well, so here I went.  My grandson picked out the fabric for the top.  Since the skirt didn't actually need any adjustments, I reasoned that the top would not either.  I did add three inches to the length, just as I did for the skirt.  I have a long torso so tops notoriously run short on me.  Tops I make, tops I buy, they all end up short on me.  Was being so smart, added the inches to the back piece, added the inches to the bottom front piece.  All went well...so I thought.  Forgot to add to the top front piece as well.  The length should have been added to the top front piece.  The pockets are stitched cutely in the seam, but the seam rides high.  Thankfully, in this case, I am for once glad I am small busted, otherwise those cute pockets would fall right across my nipples.  Guess that would save people from carrying the cell phone in their bra.  It stitched up easily though. This fabric is 100% cotton, a course weave at that, so I used the serger for the seams and the edges.  I turned up the bottom edge for a narrow hem.  The back of the top is a single button with a loop enclosure.  This is the only part of the pattern that I was totally confused with.  It made no sense what so ever.  The loop was too short and I had a heck of a time getting it turned right side out.  Ended up getting it turned out right, then serged the edges and stitched it on by machine.  

All the little problems aside, I really like this pattern and will make it again...soon. Lessons learned: Do not adjust the width of either item. Add length to top pattern piece. Lengthen the loop piece to adjust for turning it into the hemmed edge. Or just skip the button all together and use a flat bar hook closure.

I would also like to add that my Brother SE 1900 has now officially replaced my Pfaff as my primary sewing machine.  I haven't used the embroidery unit yet, but that is planned for the near future.  I am thinking this pattern top would look really nice with some embroidered stitching along the seam.

All in all, this pattern was easy for a sewing beginner, or any level actually.  There is enough natural ease in the top that no adjustments were needed, at least not for my size and shape.  The skirt, even with the pleats, had enough ease with the elastic waist that the skirt didn't really need any adjustments either.  I still prefer a flat front waist with elastic only in the back. A side closure with a flat bar hook might be an interesting finish for the skirt.